Cavolo Nero Pesto

And Not Making January More Miserable

I do not believe in any kind of January diet/detox. Why would anyone want to make this dreary season even drearier by deprivation?

For one thing, January is the season where I crave fat more than anything, to put some protective blubber between me and the biting winds (and water. Cold winter sea is the best sea). Now obviously I don't want to eat badly, because I never want to eat badly, but I want to eat hearty and wholesome food that is bolstering and deeply flavoured and layered with pancetta and pecorino and good, newly pressed olive oil and also good for me at the same time. Rich soups, slow braised stews, creamy pulses, glossy pastas, floury paninos, cheesy pizzas; bakes, roasts, anchovy butter chicken, slow cooked vegetables, roast fennel, gratins, creamy puddings. And, of course, citrus in and on and after everything. That is what my January looks like. And there will, of course, be wine with every meal (evenings only though, otherwise I need a nap). As I keep telling you, it's the key to a long life.

Of course January is also made less dreary by my some of my favourite produce. All the brassicas, which match unquestionable nutritive value with infinite deliciousness and versatility, and citrus which offers the same gifts. This pesto is the perfect thing for this time of year. Rich, nutritious, reassuringly, garishly green. Forget a green juice, this will without doubt put lead in your sad January pencil, as my dad would say. And no, my dad is the son of a priest and the world's biggest prude, he does not mean it sexually. More of a general vigour sort of thing.

I’m not really sure if this is technically a pesto or a puree, but let’s not split hairs, because it is all we have been eating now for days and it may be my new favourite pasta sauce/coating of all time. A puree of almost cartoon green, Grinch/goblin green, it takes about 10 minutes to make, freezes and keeps well, and the whole family likes it (including Tiny Saint who is but 18 months old). What more could you ask for?

Cavolo nero, or black cabbage, is a wonderful and beautiful brassica, if like me and Uncle Monty you find the cabbage infinitely more beautiful than the rose (I also love roses, obviously). It is elongated and dark, deepest dark purple green, almost silvery, and grows well (better even) in the frost, poking out of the icy ground like green, crinkly bunnies’ ears. The ribs (tough inner stems) need to be removed, and then only the thick, arrow-shaped leaves are edible, but it is a delicious and versatile winter vegetable which has a deep, nutty, sweet, and slightly bitter flavour like a cross between kale, purple sprouting broccoli and red cabbage. I adore it, and it is put to good use in the Italian kitchen, usually in the delicious Tuscan peasant soup Ribollita which is one of my favourite dishes (will write up this too). It involves beans, greens and bread, and plentiful new olive oil to finish, could a soup get any better?

Anyway, Cavolo Nero can also be put to many other good uses, and here is my current favourite.

Toss through any pasta of your choice (I particularly like it with pappardelle or gnocchetti). Today I made it with spelt pasta, the nuttiness of the pasta works particurly well with the nuttiness of the cabbage, and makes it even more satisfyingly nutritious, too.

Makes 4-6 portions

1 large bunch of cavolo nero (leaves stripped away from tough stalks)

70g Pecorino or parmesan or ideally a mix of both

50g Roasted blanched almonds (in a 170 oven for 12 mins until just lightly golden)

Salt

Juice and zest of half a large lemon

80-100 ml extra virgin olive oil

1 clove of garlic

A splash of water

Bring a large pan of well salted water to the boil. Strip the cavolo of the stalks and discard. Boil the cavolo until just tender (this will take a few minutes) then drain it and throw it straight in the blender with 3 ice cubes (this helps to retain the green colour but is not essential). Put all of the other ingredients in the blender and blend everything until smooth, adding the oil and a splash of water until you have a creamy, just pourable consistency.

Boil your pasta shape of choice until just al dente, reserving some of the pasta water. Toss through with a good large scoop of pesto per person/portion, add extra olive oil and extra grated cheese and some of the reserved pasta water, toss and stir well, taste for seasoning, correcting if necessary, then serve. Always with extra olive oil on top (the best you can find)